Waiting on Godot...
Location: New Zealand
Rank: Ace Attorney
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:23 am
Don't worry- it's not a bad thing. I don't mind. There's gaps between your posts so it's all good. You're not the only one. Probably the most frequent, that's all :)
OK, giving colour names doesn't help cause colours vary amongst brands so apple green in one brand will not be the same apple green in another. Heck, it can vary in batch numbers. I can help though. I've done painting courses and research. I'm familiar with student grade acrylics, and middle grade oil paints.
Firstly, student grade acrylics are NOTHING like professional grade, so if the fact that it paints like plastic annoys you, rest assured that professional paints paint like silk. The student ones dry too fast, and they dry like rubber. They're REALLY frustrating, but they're cheap to learn from so it's all good. I have some iridescent, and metalics paints in a student range. They're fun to play with :)
First thing I was told to do when I learnt to paint was to lay a base down of a colour that fitted the mood of the picture. This helps you with mixing colours nicely cause the temperature of a colour can change depending on what colour it's beside. A warm yellow can turn cold by a bold red if it's not saturated enough, while the same yellow may be perfect as a warm colour beside a blue.
Next, you actually have 6 primary colours. Ward red, warm blue, warm yellow, cool red, cool blue, cool yellow. When I did my oil painting course, they asked me to buy specific brands of paint cause all colours like cobalt blue varies to the different brands. Cobalt blue is a cool blue, while Ultramarine is a warm blue. I got a cadmium red, and another which was the warm red, cadmium yellow and a cold yellow... forget what it was... Basically, if a warm light hits an object, it reflects a warm colour (has reder tints in the colour), but the shadow is always the complementary colour
but in cold colours (so it'll have more bluer tints to it). painters usually don't use black cause tonal greys (greys that are only black and white mixes) are washed out. Artists usually make greys and blacks by mixing the primaries together for a saturated grey or black.
When doing highlights of a warm colour, it's nice to mix with yellow to lighten it rather than white cause white gives that pink colour which isn't eye catching. If you mix yellow in it'll make the red lighter and pop more making it a focus (like the top apple. If that apple had no pink on it it'd be the focus of the picture)
Your bowel I assume isn't a glossy object, so matt finish is best if you take the base colour and add the complimentary colour to it to darken it in the shadows rather than highlight it. IT'll give it a flat finish rather than a gloss one.
Look for the apple's shadows too. It'll make them look like they're on something and not floating :)
And finally, with realistic painting, if the edge curves around gradually, don't sharpen it with a boarder. Make the edge soft, and make sure that the colour behind it is different to the foreground to separate it out. This will give it a round appearance. Sharp edges flatten objects out plane wise.
The apples actually look really good, so keep up the good work. This is all stuff your teacher likely wont teach you and assume that you'll learn on your own. Heck, if your art teacher is anything like mine then they'll assume you want to draw picaso and never teach you anything fun to draw ever >.>
Hope it helps! </text wall>